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Messages - lennevia

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346
General Discussion / Re: Another Beginner Question
« on: June 15, 2020, 12:35:13 PM »
Hello Bernhard,

For the bootloader flasher, we use a standard Atmel ICE programmer (the ATATMEL-ICE https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/microchip-technology/ATATMEL-ICE/ATATMEL-ICE-ND/4753379), but really any Atmel JTAG / ICSP programmer would work.

You'll need all of the JTAG connections from the programmer to be connected to the same pins on the TinyZero, so you would need a proto board with SPI connections, or we could look for the parts and assemble an ICSP TinyShield here for you to use.

Let me know!

Thanks,

Laveréna

347
Hello,

I've got to admit that I have never heard of an issue like this. So it could be the SD Card mixing up some things, the file transfer got mixed up, or the menu is acting up for some reason.

Here are some suggestions you can try in order:

1. Use the troubleshooting section of the Uploading Games to SD Card section to re-format the SD card you are using (this will clear anything on the SD card, so make sure anything you need is removed)

2. Get a fresh download of all of the Arcade games from our site, and copy these onto the formatted SD Card

Try testing the unit now for any lockup issues, if still getting lockups:

3. Reload the Tiny Arcade menu using the Arduino IDE: https://learn.tinycircuits.com/Help/Tiny-Arcade-DIY-Kit_Menu-Update/

I hope that helps! Let me know if you are still having any problems!

Thanks,

Réna

348
General Discussion / Re: Another Beginner Question
« on: June 08, 2020, 05:08:22 PM »
Hello Bernhard,

1. We flash all of our SAMD21 products for use with the Arduino platform. You could do this yourself if you have all the necessary hardware, as well as an ability to solder a fixture using a protoboard. We do not currently have the software publicly available anywhere, but we are an open-source company and I would be happy to share whatever it is that you are interested in :)

2. As for the crystal, it may be difficult to spot on the schematic since the area with the part is a little cluttered, but there is a 32.768 number indicating that the oscillator is 32.768kHZ.

Hope that helps you in building a GPS system to spy on your cat   ;)

Let me know if you have any other questions, or need any clarification.

Thank you,

Réna


349
General Discussion / Re: "Best" way to send sensor data via BLE?
« on: June 04, 2020, 01:17:55 PM »
Hello Tacca,

Can you include the code you currently have? I can try optimizing it to see if it can be made more efficient.

Do you need the accuracy you have mentioned? What data is most important to you, or do you need all of it?

Let me know!

Thanks,

Réna

350
General Discussion / Re: Beginner questions
« on: June 01, 2020, 05:42:45 PM »
Yes, it is possible

351
Hello Andy,

Thanks for sharing your findings!

Hope it helps others.

Thank you!

Laveréna

352
Hello,

The TinyShield in question is a semi-custom board that is meant for use with an AVR programmer.

For this reason, there is no documentation or example code on our website. You can look at this website for some general information: https://www.pololu.com/docs/0J67/5.1

Thanks,

Réna

353
Hey there Andy,

I am not sure what setup you have for using the 9-Axis with Linux, but you may want to check the library on GitHub to see if it is supported: https://github.com/RPi-Distro/RTIMULib

If there's any more information you have, I can try my best to help!

Best,

Réna

354
Well done!

Thanks for updating with your findings!

355
User Projects / Code Examples / Re: Tiny TV
« on: May 12, 2020, 05:11:12 PM »
Hello Manny,

You can find the TinyTV program on github, or you can download it directly with this link: https://github.com/TinyCircuits/TinyCircuits-TinyTV-ASK4002/raw/master/examples/TinyTV.zip

To get coding, you would want to go through the TinyScreen+ Getting Started tutorial to make sure you have all the right background software: https://learn.tinycircuits.com/Processors/TinyScreen+_Setup_Tutorial/

Let me know if you have any questions!

Réna

356
General Discussion / Re: Joystick shield discontinued?
« on: May 08, 2020, 02:12:10 PM »
Hello,

Yes it is discontinued, sorry for the way it is presented on the website! It must have gotten lost when we changed over our website in the past year. This will be fixed today to correct the posting.

The joystick buttons were too difficult to manufacture with, so we opted for a joystick with an injection-molded (previously 3D printed with resin) attachment. The Video Game Kit became an all-in-one that can be seen with the Tiny Arcade, or the Pocket Arcade. These kits are cheaper and more functional than the previously sold Video Game Kit with all the same technical abilities and then some.

If you are looking for just joysticks, we also have the Joystick Wirelings.

Sorry about the misinformation, and please let me know if you have any other questions!

Thanks,

Laveréna

357
General Discussion / Re: TinyZero Problems
« on: May 06, 2020, 01:37:03 PM »
Hey John,

You are correct that the TinyScreen+ and TinyZero are pretty much the same schematically - so there shouldn't be a huge difference in being able to program them.

Do you see this same issue on every TinyZero? You said you had one that worked fine before?

You could try updating the Arduino IDE if it's not the most recent version to see if that makes any difference.

A small suggestion I am sure you are aware of, is to make sure you have "TinyZero" selected in the Tools menu when you are programming.

I hope that helps! Let me know if you find anything out!

Thanks,

Laveréna

358
Hey Luke,

Happy to hear my response helped, and that you're not seeing any issues in the accuracy of the time!

Excited to see the final project!

Best,

Laveréna


359
Wirelings / Re: .42" OLED usage with Arduino UNO?
« on: May 05, 2020, 02:33:44 PM »
Hey there Steve,

The random white bits mean that the screen is not correctly being initialized.

The Arduino UNO will supply 5V, when the 0.42" Wireling is meant to be used with 3.3V - so there is a possibility that the power difference could be causing issues.

There are a couple of solutions to output 3.3V from the Arduino UNO: https://www.quora.com/Is-there-any-way-to-have-an-Arduino-Uno-pin-output-3-3V-instead-of-5V-when-it-is-high-looking-for-a-non-PWM-solution

It is, however, possible that the 0.42" Screen could be damaged. If you have a Wireling Adapter Shield or other Wireling-specific hardware, I would advise you to test with this before moving forward so that you can make sure the screen is still functioning.

I hope that helps!

Thank you,

Laveréna

360
Hello Luke,

Welcome to the forum! I'll try to answer your questions and provide information where I can!

Quote
In addition if the I2C did suddenly lose connection mid way through sending data what would the 328P processor do?  does it simply hang waiting for the ACK and the STOP command or does it just take whatever data it has received and assume the rest is value 0 and ends communication?

"Acknowledge bit is a ninth bit of every byte sent. The receiver always has to confirm successful receive with ACK by pulling SDA low or in case receiver cannot accept data it will leave SDA high (NACK), so master could stop transmitting and do another scenario if needed." This page some more information that picks apart the bits in each I2C signal.

Some things can definitely go wrong when using I2C, but these issues usually only occur when you are using a lot of different devices with different addresses - since I2C uses mainly two wires for communication, things could get a little hectic in a scenario with 20 I2C devices and trying to pull data from each device as quickly as possible.

That being said, while it is possible, it is unlikely you will have any issues. It sounds like you are using only one I2C device (the RTC). And while there is a small chance some signals could be lost - the RTC will continue to send and be read correctly for the time originally set. So while a signal could be lost, correct signals will continuously be sent - which should effectively correct any issues along the way.

All in all, I wouldn't worry too much! To put your mind at ease, I would recommend doing some tests with the hardware you have. You could set a time in respect to a trustworthy clock - like your phone - and then leave it over night or for a few days to see if there is any difference in the time.

I hope that helps!

Best,

Laveréna

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